Article by Sarantis Biskas
The fashion weeks of New York, London, Milan, and Paris have come to an end. Designers presented their Fall/Winter 2026/27 collections. Besides the clothes, however, we noticed several trends that reveal interesting insights about the industry’s future, as well as the challenges it faces and the strategies it adopts to overcome them.
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Age Inclusivity in Model Casting
The Fall/Winter 26–27 collection of Chanel opened with Stephanie Cavalli, a 50-year-old model and a favorite of Matthieu Blazy. Similarly, the show by Tom Ford featured a mix of male and female models of various ages, with 90s supermodels Gisele Zelauy (58 years old) and Kristen McMenamy (61 years old) stealing the spotlight.
A wide age range was also shown at Bottega Veneta and Carolina Herrera. Diversity in model casting complements a brand’s attempt to appeal to a broader age demographic—or to represent this powerful group of consumers with significant purchasing power. In either case, the result on the runway feels more authentic, as strong, confident women showcase designers’ creations with remarkable success.
2. Viewing Parties
Fashion shows are the public’s first point of contact with a new collection and the overall vision of a creative director. They are events that generate excitement and conversation around a brand. However, access to these shows is very limited, excluding many fashion enthusiasts and people who are just starting their career in the fashion industry.
This gap has been addressed by influencer Lyas, who organized viewing parties throughout Paris Fashion Week. With free entry and complimentary drinks in a theater with a capacity of 2,000 people, attendees could watch the latest collections live on a giant screen. Participants also had the chance to win invitations to attend the shows in person.
In a similar spirit, Bottega Veneta installed two screens outside the venue of its show in Milan, giving fans gathered outside the opportunity to watch the collection presentation in real time. Meanwhile, Vogue screened live the Balmain Fall/Winter 26/27 show live through its pop-up Vogue Café (a move sparked reactions from Lyas, who accused Vogue of copying his watch-party concept while inviting only influencers, thereby losing the democratic spirit of the original idea).
This trend of including people who are passionate about fashion reflects an effort to expand beyond the traditionally exclusive guest lists of fashion weeks and signals an attempt by the industry to bring in new voices with fresh ideas.
3. Iconic Locations and Unique Experiences
Jonathan Anderson presented his Fall/Winter 26/27 collection for Dior at the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris. The set design featured a greenhouse, a runway suspended above a fountain filled with water lilies, and guests seated on benches inspired by the iconic green chairs found throughout the park—miniature versions of which served as the show invitations.
Stella McCartney chose a venue that resembled a stable more than a traditional runway. Models walked around a ring with ten horses that amazed the audience with their perfectly synchronized movements. The designer’s message focused on the coexistence of fashion and animals without the latter being harmed by the former.
It becomes clear, therefore, that the objective is no longer the straightforward presentation of a collection. Creative directors aim to place clothing within a broader conceptual framework, whether it is the projection of an ideal lifestyle, a cultural standard, or a philosophy. The goal of these spectacular shows is to create a form of emotional connection with the viewer—one that allows them to identify with the experience and perhaps even feel moved by it.
4. A Return to Heritage
While observing the brands’ collections, inspiration drawn from their past was evident in many cases. A characteristic example is Calvin Klein, which for the Fall/Winter 26 season presented modern silhouettes that nevertheless respected the company’s minimalist and functional backbone. Similarly, Daniel Lee restored Burberry’s former glory through its most iconic product category: outerwear. Leather trench coats, checked coats, and fur-trimmed collars helped Burberry stand out during London Fashion Week.
Revisiting the history of these iconic houses strongly aims to generate nostalgia around their names. Demna’s Gucci draws inspiration from the period when Tom Ford served as creative director, while Fendi has revived the Peekaboo Bag in colorful variations. Such moves aim to create an emotional connection with each brand’s heritage. The objective seems to be the creation of garments and accessories that evoke memories and make a strong impression through a house’s self-referential identity.
These strategies are not accidental. Fashion’s biggest groups experienced a decline in sales over the past year. LVMH recorded a 5% drop in revenue in 2025 compared to the previous year (€80.807 billion in 2025 versus €84.683 billion in 2024). Similarly, Kering reported a 13% decline in revenue.
These figures confirm the desire of major groups to rethink their strategies by adopting practices that appear more human-centered and accessible to consumers. In an attempt to capture the element of virality (during highly visible moments such as fashion week) brands are seeking to engage their audiences in ways that go beyond the simple presentation of clothing, expanding their customer base through strategies of spectacle and inclusivity.
Bibliography
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ΙΩΑΝΝΑ ΣΑΛΑΜΟΥΡΑ. (2026, March 10). Ποια είναι η Stéphanie Cavalli, το μοντέλο που στα 50 ανοίγει τα ντεφιλέ της Chanel. BOVARY. https://www.bovary.gr/faces/stephanie-cavalli-montelo-50-ntefile-chanel
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